Alex BespoyasovAuthor's photo

Rome, October 2018

Rome leaves a very ambivalent impression of itself. On the one hand it is a classical Europe, on the other hand it is as if it were not. I will try to explain what I mean.

Take architecture, for example. In Rome there's anything and for every taste: neoclassic, renaissance, gothic, baroque.

Vittoriano, an example of Neoclassicism
Vittoriano, an example of Neoclassicism
Santa Maria di Loreto, example of Renaissance
Santa Maria di Loreto, example of Renaissance
Facade of the cathedral on Piazza Cipolo
Facade of the cathedral on Piazza Cipolo
Church of Cessa del Sacro Cuore di Geso in Prati, an example of Gothic
Church of Cessa del Sacro Cuore di Geso in Prati, an example of Gothic
Palace of Justice, Baroque example
Palace of Justice, Baroque example

But you have to put your head down and we see piles of garbage. Everywhere.

Overflowing trashcan and garbage nearby
Overflowing trashcan and garbage nearby
Corner of the house abandoned by trash
Corner of the house abandoned by trash
Parked bike next to a pile of garbage
Parked bike next to a pile of garbage

Or transportation. You could take a ride on a cute thing like this.

Old tram
Old tram

But you'd have to wait an hour or an hour and a half for a tram or bus because the schedules there are messed up. There aren't a lot of covered stops, some don't have signage with route schedules, and somewhere it's hard to tell it's a stop at all.

Written route schedule billboard
Written route schedule billboard
Transport stop
Transport stop

Yes. By the standards of Rome, it's a perfect stop.

The most successful example of a stop: has a roof, has a schedule
The most successful example of a stop: has a roof, has a schedule

And if they tell me why there are indoor stops there—they have sunshine all the time and no rain, I'll just show you this picture.

Hail
Hail

Classic landmarks like the Roman Forum...

View of the Roman Forum from the east
View of the Roman Forum from the east
View of the Roman Forum from the north
View of the Roman Forum from the north

Colosseum...

View of the Colosseum
View of the Colosseum

Pantheon...

Front of the Pantheon
Front of the Pantheon

The palace of Italian civilization...

The so-called “Square Colosseum”
The so-called “Square Colosseum”

The Mouth of Truth are certainly interesting, but it has't had the spirit of antiquity or antiquity for a long time. These places have all been turned into attractions and money-grubbing machines for tourists.

The Mouth of Truth
The Mouth of Truth

One of the really beautiful and atmospheric places is the non-Catholic cemetery on the south side of town.

Burials in the Roman Non-Catholic Cemetery
Burials in the Roman Non-Catholic Cemetery
At sunrise, the sun lights up the manicured tombstones very beautifully
At sunrise, the sun lights up the manicured tombstones very beautifully

It's ambiguous with museums, too. There's Macro, which has nothing at all to look at except one work. and there's MAXXII, which is really interesting. Here is the interior of MAXXII.

Indirect stairs between floors
Indirect stairs between floors
Stairs between 3rd and 2nd floor
Stairs between 3rd and 2nd floor

“No posters.”

A painting showing several inscriptions, one of which is No Posters
A painting showing several inscriptions, one of which is No Posters

Splattered with real ink.

Fountain that splashes black ink
Fountain that splashes black ink

Das Schloss. You can walk around in a virtual reality helmet.

Layout of a location you can walk around in a virtual reality helmet
Layout of a location you can walk around in a virtual reality helmet

“This is real, right?”

Part of a comic book story where a robot asks the reader “This is real, right?”
Part of a comic book story where a robot asks the reader “This is real, right?”

More of the interesting stuff is former mental institution. The exhibit is short but atmospheric.

Portraits of patients painted by one of the workers at the asylum
Portraits of patients painted by one of the workers at the asylum
Copies of one patient's notes
Copies of one patient's notes
Treatment room equipment “sewn into” the wall
Treatment room equipment “sewn into” the wall
Medicine cabinet
Medicine cabinet

Unlike the Colosseum, which I found boring, St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican was, on the contrary, interesting.

St. Peter's Basilica, Vatican City
St. Peter's Basilica, Vatican City

Everyone of course pooh-poohed the dome of the Basilica, I went there too.

Panoramic view from the Basilica dome
Panoramic view from the Basilica dome

The inside of the Basilica is also beautiful.

View inside the Basilica from the dome
View inside the Basilica from the dome
Sculpture of St. Andrew the Apostle
Sculpture of St. Andrew the Apostle
Sculpture of St. Veronica
Sculpture of St. Veronica

But it's dudes like this that spoil the impression. In Rome, they try to bait you at every turn: skip the line, buy unnecessary shit, do this, do that.

Man urges you to “skip the line” at St. Peter's Basilica
Man urges you to “skip the line” at St. Peter's Basilica

More of interest, apartment of the Sovereign Order of Malta at Via Condotti, 68.

Engraving with the coat of arms of the Order
Engraving with the coat of arms of the Order
Courtyard gate
Courtyard gate

And also Villa Malta, through the keyhole you can see the territory of three states: the Order, the Vatican, and Italy.

Villa Malta
Villa Malta
The Order is extraterritorial in Italy
The Order is extraterritorial in Italy
Here you can see the territory of the 3 States
Here you can see the territory of the 3 States

Well, and a few photos with a claim to artistry.

View from the Tiber of St. Peter's Basilica
View from the Tiber of St. Peter's Basilica
Narrow street in Rome
Narrow street in Rome
People crossing the street at an intersection
People crossing the street at an intersection
Couple looking at a menu outside a restaurant
Couple looking at a menu outside a restaurant
Street art: portrait painted with rough strokes
Street art: portrait painted with rough strokes
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